Burda Jacket 115
Burda Jacket 115

How I made a Burda Jacket

This isn’t a tutorial as such, but explains how I used a Burda magazine to make Burda Jacket 115.

The pattern comes from quite an old Burda magazine – 11/2013.

There are two versions of a similar item in this magazine. As is often the case with Burda patterns. This jacket comes as a long coat seen on the cover – which is is Burda Coat pattern 116.

Burda magazine 11/2013
Burda magazine 11/2013

Or a short jacket – which is Burda Jacket pattern 115. The version I made.

Burda Jacket 115
Burda Jacket 115

I’ve more or less got the hang of figuring out how to trace a Burda pattern now. But it took me a while.

The first thing to get right BEFORE you buy a Burda magazine pattern – is which size pattern you want. Burda magazines come with smaller and larger patterns. It’s important to check before you buy the magazine – that the pattern will come in your size.

They have a chart in front of the pattern section which gives Burda body measurements and corresponding pattern sizes.

Burda Jacket 115
Burda Jacket 115

Once you like the look of a garment, you have to find your pattern. Next to the photo of the item of clothing will be a pattern number. In the middle of the magazine are the patterns which pop out of the staples that bind the magazine together. And around them are the instructions in what is a rough paper. Almost like newspaper. The pattern numbers follow in chronological order.

The instructions tell you which sheet and what colour to look for. In this case my pattern was on Sheet A. I had to look for the green pattern line. It also tells you which pattern pieces to trace, in this case 21, 22, 23, 24 and 25. I omitted 25 as I really didn’t want the hassle of putting a pleat in the back of my jacket.

Pattern instructions
Pattern instructions

Next you have to trace your pattern from the relevant sheet to a large piece of paper. I often use old newspapers but there is a risk of ink being transferred to your fabric. I also keep paper packaging that comes scrunched up in boxes to re-use for patterns. Spread it out flat, then roll up to store.

Burda pattern sheets
Burda pattern sheets

I place a large thin towel down on a table and then put whatever piece of paper I’m using over the towel. Use weights or pins to secure the pattern to the paper. You need the setup as flat as is humanely possible with no creases or rumples. Also ensure as little movement when tracing the pattern so there are no distortions and the pattern pieces fit together nicely when you sew your garment together.

Pattern pieces
Pattern pieces

You use a tracing wheel to run over the pattern lines and perforate the pattern lines onto your paper. Remove pins or weights holding it all together and using paper scissors, cut along the perforations to get your pattern pieces. And that’s how I create the pattern pieces from a Burda Pattern magazine.

Sewing tracing wheel
Sewing tracing wheel

The instructions are usually brief and don’t come with supporting images which I won’t tell a lie, can be challenging.

There are times where I simply could not understand the instructions and had to guess what to do next. I made another Burda jacket at the same time as this one that I ended up tossing as I could not get it to fit together nicely.

Luckily this one turned out just fine.

Have a great green week.

Greenie.

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